Programs Blog

Tuesday, 29 July 2025

Noon Position: 20° 23.444ʻ N x 156° 27.673ʻ W

Ship Heading: 165°

Ship Speed: 32 knots

Taffrail Log: 339.5 nm

Weather / Wind / Sail Plan (from 1300 Watch Change):  Cumulous, wind from East, motorsailing at 1050 rpm under mainstaysʻl, seas SE 7 feet, unrestricted visibility

Location: Alenuihāha Channel between the islands of Maui and Hawaiʻi

B Watch is up for the 0700-1300 watch. The plan is to pull the anchor at Makena Bay and set sail for the Big Island. The seas are flat as a pancake this morning, fluffy clouds crown Haleākala 10,000 feet above us. We’re excited to head to our next snorkel survey site near Kawaihae. First thing is to practice some line handling skills. Our Watch Officers, Seth Leo-2nd Mate, and Raechel Zeller-2nd Marine Tech, give us a review of casting off, palming the line (to keep it from flying off too fast), and making fast the line. After that, we start the motors and head out of the lee of Maui. The plan is to hug the coast before crossing the channel to the Big Island.

The wind has other plans. As we round the corner the wind picks up and steadily grows, reaching as high as 40 knots. This is a Gale Force Wind. The waves crash over the port and starboard beams, soaking and blinding us. Those who had a respite from seasickness get a look of doom in their eyes. Captain Rebecca orders us to install safety lines along the length of the ship and restricts access to the quarterdeck. To head forward or aft, we must clip our harness to the safety lines to minimize the risk of being washed overboard. This is just like the movies! We’re sailing in a Gale Force Wind, 10 foot waves crashing into the ship and washing the deck for us. So much for the gentle lee of Maui.

A change of course sends us farther West where the waves and winds calm by a few knots. Lucky for me, I’m on Science Watch today with Faith. Our responsibilities switch from the usual rotation of Lookout-Helm-Weather-Boat Watch-Galley to checking the stats in the blissfully air conditioned dry lab. Not so lucky for Akil, whose first post is the lookout. Clipped in and hanging on at the bow, he keeps a lookout for small boats or other hazards on the horizon. My other watch mates, Hana, Amira, and Juliet take turns at the helm, then going below into the hot bowels of the ship to check oil pressure, RPMs, water temperatures, and take readings on wind direction, outside temperature, and sea heights. With seas this rough, I have felt like I completed a 15-mile hike with 1000 feet elevation after the end of a boat check. It takes enormous core and leg strength to keep one’s balance while crouched down reading a pressure valve.

Our watch ends and we pass it off to C Watch with a cheer of “1! 2! 3! Birthday!” Oh yeah, today is my birthday. I’m excited about the Hummingbird Cake our head galley steward, Vix, is making for me, and the Thai green curry for dinner. But first, sleep….

I’m awoken to a polite whisper telling me to come to the quarterdeck for our daily class. Today the plan was to do safety drills. Change of plans. There has been an 8.7 magnitude earthquake of the Russian coast and the entire Pacific Basin is under a Tsunami Warning. The Hawaiian Islands are expected to be hit with 1-3m waves. That doesn’t sound very big compared to the 10-foot waves we crossed early today, but it means 1-3m (approx. 3-9 feet) above mean tide levels. Hawaii’s highest high tides are around 3 feet, and these tsunami waves have been gaining force traveling across thousands of miles of open ocean. If you’re a surfer, you know the best waves come from long periods between wave crests. Think of a tsunami like a wave with a 3-hour period. When it hits the shore, it’s not going to stop, the water will keep going inshore until that energy finally dissipates, then it will head back to sea taking everything with it. Is this the drill we were going to practice? I’m in denial and don’t want to believe it’s really happening. 

No, it’s not a drill. The Coast Guard has restricted all ports in Hawaiʻi and instead of heading in to anchor, we’re going back out at least 12 miles from shore to wait it out. The staff send emails to everyone’s family to let them know we’re safe. There is nothing to worry about as the wave travels under us toward shore, we won’t see or feel it. 

“And on that note!” Captain Rebecca says, Vix comes up the charthouse stairs with a huge tray of cupcakes with a burning candle and everyone sings “Happy Birthday.” I blow out the candle, wishing for safety for everyone threatened on shore. 

After the deliciously spice green curry, it’s time to get some sleep before our Dawn Watch at 0100. Maybe we’ll see dolphins riding our bow wave tonight, their shapes outlined only by glittering blue phosphorescent plankton. Sparkle dolphins. 

But I’ll let someone else tell that story.

P.S. If anyone I know on the Big Island is reading this, we’re anchored in front of the Mauna Kea Hotel. Look for the 130 foot sailing vessel, you can’t miss it!

Erin Smith, B Watch, University of Hawaiʻi at Hilo