Programs Blog

Palmerston

July 12, 2024
Departure from Palmerston

Author: Zeke, C watch, Grinnell College

Ship’s Log

Monday, 2 July 2024

Noon Position (Lat and Long): 18°02.7’S x 163°11.4’W

Ship Heading (degrees):  At anchor

Ship Speed (knots):  At anchor

Log (nm): 1096

Weather / Wind:  8/8 clouds, Stratus/Stratocumulus, 26°C, 8’ swells, BF 5

Description of Location: Anchored leeward side of Palmerston Atoll, Cook Islands

Our departure from Palmerston was unexpectedly emotional for me, and perceivably most of the ships company. The atoll, unimaginably isolated, was both idyllic and perplexing. The white beaches forested with palm trees and enclosed by azure lagoons provided the backdrop that I have come to expect of “paradise,” the words of the islands pastor not mine, from popular media. However, the scene was muddled by debris and plastic in the sand and turned upside down by the presence of Play Stations and American sport franchises. Embarrassingly, I was surprised at the existence of these items that are inextricably linked to a world that felt very distant from an island with only thirty-one inhabitants.

The experience on the small atoll escaped immediate appreciation. In the moment, the immersion was overwhelming. The suspension in our shipboard routine was jarringly different than the eighteen hour days that we have gotten used to. The lack of structure and absence of planned events, other than volleyball which the islanders causally showed up to at their own pace. Everyone took advantage of some well-deserved free time to engage with their host families and collect shells of the beach. Many people explored the reef or read lazily in hammocks hanging in the shade. As afternoon approached the island prepared for a large potluck style meal. I found myself emotionally and perceptually lost by the place I found myself in. As we sat on the final night and shared music and danced all together, I was overcome with emotion as I realized how lucky we all were to be in a place so remote and welcoming visited by so few.

Zeke, C watch, Grinnell College